The center block is the easiest to physically manage. However, working in this area introduces the greatest risk of permanently damaging your controller. This may be a good time to take a break, if you haven't already. So, go play Steel Battalion. ;) (oh wait, you can't. all your stuff is apart. hee hee hee)

The center block is plentiful with unused space. This could lend itself to additional mods in the future. For now, we will focus on the task at hand. First, I removed the pedal connecter from the main board.

Removing the six screws that hold the main board in place at either end, allowed me to flip the board over, and gain access to the solder joints, where the Xbox cable and both left and rite block ribbon cables are connected.

This is a good time to recheck your wiring. The forty solder joints on either end of the main board relate to the conductors of the ribbon cables leading to the left and rite controller blocks. Provided you used the two free conductors toward the edge of the ribbon cable (39 & 40 ) when completing the previous section (adding wires that lead from the left and rite control block's ribbon cables to their respective motors), you can use the following images to see where they end up on the main board. If you're unsure, use the same technique you used to trace your wiring earlier. You may need to disconnect your wire leads from the motor plugs for accurate testing. Again, if you have a multimeter, it'll come in handy here.

I tack soldered wires to each of the joints that lead to the motor's ground.

Both should lead to the left most solder joint of the Xbox connecter's solder joints. I added one additional wire to this solder joint, leaving the other end hanging loose, for now. Strip and tin the loose end. We'll call this the Xbox ground line.

Use the images above as a reference for completing this section. If you have trouble tack soldering multiple wires to a single joint, you can use a small project PC board to complete this mod. I decided against it, since the actual circuit is so small.

The solder joint, at the very edge of the reaming row of the 40 joints, leads to your motor’s +5VDC input. Note: Depending on how you wired up your motor, the 5VDC input and ground may be inverted.

Both of the 5VDC wires need to connect together, as with the motor ground joints. However, the 5VDC wires do not connect directly to the Xbox connection solder joints. I ran an additional wire from them and let it hang open for now, stripping and tinning the loose end. We'll call this the Motor 5VDC input.

Finally, I tack soldered a wire to the Xbox connector's 5VDC solder joint. Again, I stripped and tinned the loose end.

We'll call this the Xbox 5VDC output.

So, now you have both of the motor's ground lines connecting to the main board's ground. And you have both motor's 5VDC lines connected to a wire that is hanging loose (motor 5VDC input). And one more loose wire connected to the Xbox controller's 5VDC output (Xbox 5VDC output). This is shown in the larger image above.

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