Steel Battalion Controller Mod
By: AlphA

RUMBLE
The Left Block

The left control stick is dissembled the same way as the right.
Again, the innards are removed with minimal effort.
I installed the larger rumble motor slightly lower on the control stick, as compared to the smaller motor on the rite stick. Initially, the motor leaned toward the back of the stick, where the spinning weight would bang against the back wall of the controller. Prier to placing the motor in this area, I added a small spot of hot glue near the upper rear area where I was to install the motor. I let the glue cool/dry. This acted as a bit of padding, pushing the motor forward enough so that it no longer leaned back. This cause the motors spinning weights to clear the rear wall- allowing it to rotate freely. I then replaced the other half of the controller to check the fit, just as I did to the right control stick. Once satisfied with the placement of the motor, I pulled it out again and covered the base area with hot glue. Then, quickly placed the motor back into the controller before the glue cooled/dried.


Be careful when doing this, as you are pretty much committing the motor to that spot. If you make a mistake, the motor can be removed. However, trying to pry something away from a solid layer of hot glue can be a bitch. After testing the fit again, I lined the other edge of the motor with a thick band of hot glue. This keeps the motor snug against the other half of the controller. Replacing the other half of the controller for one final test fit concludes this part of the mod.

NOTE:

You may want to test the motor now. You will know how to do this when you have finished reading this mod tutorial.

the inside of the left block is nearly an inverted version of the right. However, there are a few major differences. One in particular...

 

PANDORA'S BOX!
*** CAUTION!!! ***


THIS CHAMBER IS POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS!

The left control stick axis/pivot chamber sports a very powerful spring. And yes, this needs to be opened. If you do it wrong, the spring will cause the lid and screws to fly at you with much force! Use caution when opening!

 

First remove the left screw. Then, firmly hold this side down with your thumb or palm while you remove the remaining screw. Slowly ease up on the lid until it is away from the rest of the chamber and the spring is no longer influencing it.
Remove the spring of doom.
Remove the ring that the spring was resting on -provided it didn't come flying at you.

 

As with the rite controller, I pulled two conductor wires (39 & 40) away from the rest. Then, stripped, tinned and soldered two long wires to them. This time, I ran the wires above the axis/pivot chamber, under the potentiometer, through the small space leading into the chamber and up through the control stick shaft. Again, I soldered leads to the open end of my new wires and plugged them into the rumble motor's power connecter.

 

After putting the spring ring back into the chamber, I replaced the spring of doom then positioned the lid. Notice the lid has three protrusions at the bottom. The middle simply aligns with the gap on the chamber. The two tabs go in to the spaces provided on the chamber. This creates a hinge like restraint to the bottom of the lid. I used my palm to push the lid down and hold it in place while I replaced the screws.

I know I have went in to detail on this part of the mod. I wanted to share some sort of technique on how to successfully complete this task without injury.

Once the chamber was secured, I promised never open it again. I also reassembled the left controller stick at this point. Reassembling the left control stick wasn't nearly as "challenging" as the right stick.

All that remains now is the center block.

 

 

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